Famagusta

In ancient times the world’s wealthiest city, modern day Famagusta gives one a slightly different sense of worth nowadays. The mighty Venetian fortifications that withstood the powerful Turkish army for nearly a year now sit amid many derelict buildings.

Formerly magnificent churches have been destroyed or turned into mosques. It was Famagusta – “a seaport in Cyprus” – that Shakespeare chose as the setting for Othello. To the south lies the deserted district of Varosha, formerly the biggest resort in Cyprus.

Nearly all of the major historic sites in Famagusta lie within the Old Town, surrounded by the Venetian fortifications. The best way to enter is through the Land Gate on foot. The tourist information office is located by the gate

This area which includes Paralimni and Protaras is known to locals as Kokkinohoria, which translates as 'red villages' and refers to the high iron content in the local soil, which lends a reddish hue to the surroundings. Unlike areas in the south, water sources here are deep underground, and windmills driving pumps dot the landscape.

Following the closure of Famagusta in 1974, Paralimni because the administrative hub. The surrounding population grew from refugees due to its close proximity to the line of separation. Three churches rise above the village, the Panagia dates to the 18th century and features the typical porcelain tiles of that period and includes a small Byzantine museum.

Deryneia, a nearby farming village, sits atop a hill next to the Green Line. Deryneia provides an excellent vantage point for a view into the abandoned district of Varosha, formerly a lively tourist district but now a vacant collection of crumbling houses, and the Cathedral of St Nicholas, dating back to the Gothic era, which now serves as a mosque. Deryneia itself contains the 15th century Agia Marina and the 17th century Agios Georgios churches.

Liopetri is famous for its woven baskets, and also for its potatoes. Local basket weavers can be seen working as one walks through the village. Nearby there are beautiful icons and paintings in the village church of Agios Andronikos. Cyprus' national memorial, the Akhyronas barn, is located here and commemorates a battle with the British in 1958 in which four local EOKA fighters were killed.

Potamos Liopetriou sits on the shores for a long bay, next to Agios Georgios and an ancient watchtower dating back to Venetian times. This is undoubtedly the most picturesque fishing village on the island, and provides an idyllic retreat. Local fish tavernas highlight the diverse nature of local sealife and provide an excellent dining experience.

Sites To See

Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque A cathedral was built in 1298 to 1312 during the Lusignan period, modelled from the design of the French cathedral in Reims. Lusignan royalty, after their coronation would receive the symbolic title of “King of Jerusalem” here. Following the fall of the city in 1571, the Turks converted it into a mosque and named it after their victorious commander, and a minaret was added to the left tower. The building is still to this day a functioning mosque; visitors are only admitted outside of prayer hours with the purchase of a ticket. The interior has twelve columns to support the Gothic vaulted ceiling. There is a modest pulpit to the right, and the unusual window and enormous rosette in the facade is one of the most beautiful sights in Cyprus.

Agia Zoni & Agios Nikolaos A small, excellently preserved Byzantine-style church dating to the 15th century. It lies in an empty square surrounded by a handful of palm trees, near the the larger Church of St. Nicholas, which is partly demolished.

Fountain and Jafar Pasha Baths Located to the north of Manik Kemal Square, these fountains and baths were built in 1601 by the Commander of the Navy and Turkish Governor of Cyprus in the Ottoman style. Jafar Pasha ordered the aqueduct to be built to supply water to the city. Both the original fountain and aqueduct were destroyed, fragments salvaged from the original were used to build the current fountain.

Venetian Palace Not much remains of the palace of the kings and governors, the area is now marked by its jutting stone walls and serves as a car park. On the side of the square stands a triple-archway supported by four columns from Salamis. Above the arch is the Coat of Arms of Giovanni Renier – a former Venetian military commander of Cyprus. Between 1873 and 1876 the building was used as a prison in which Namik Kemal was imprisoned.

Sinan Pasha Mosque The former church of Saints Peter and Paul became a mosque after the capture of the city. This Gothic structure, built of yellow stone and very well-maintained, now houses the municipal library collection.

Nestorian Church Francis Lakhas, a rich Syrian merchant, built this church in 1338 for the use of Famagusta’s then populous Syrian community. The front is adorned with a rose window and carvings inside are in Syrian. Later, Greek Cypriots took over the church and renamed it Agios Georgios Exorinos. Greeks believe that dust from the church floor which is sprinkled in an enemy's house will make him die or depart Cyprus within twelve months.

Churches of the Knights Templar and Knights Hospitaller These medieval churches are known as “the twins”. To the north, above the entrance you can still see carved coats of arms of the Knights Hospitaller. In the 14th century after the dissolution of the Knights Templar, the monastery and chapel were given to the order of St. John of Jerusalem (the Knights Hospitaller). The chapel features a lovely rose window and serves as a theatre and an art gallery.

Church of St. John The Church of St. John was Famagusta’s earliest church and is a fine example of Gothic architecture. Now mostly in ruins, the north wall, presbytery, and Gothic windows remains standing. The remaining stone column is covered with floral motifs and winged dragons.

Canbulat Bastion The southeast corner of the walls was once called the Arsenal. Today is named for the Turkish commander, who performed a suicide attack on the Venetian war machine during the battle of Famagusta. His attack put the machine out of commission and he was posthumously regarded as a hero. His tomb and a small museum with artifacts dating from the Ottoman era are here.

Venetian City Walls Old Town is encircled by huge walls erected by the Venetians, in response to perceived threats from the Ottoman Empire. 15 meters high and up to 8 meters thick, they are reinforced with fifteen bastions. The two gates are the Land Gate and Sea Gate. Nicolo Prioli's name, coat of arms, 1496 and the Lion of St. Mark are carved in the marble from the ruins of Salamis. To the right are two marble lions. Legend states one evening the larger will open its mouth and he who sticks his head in will win a fortune. The entrance to Old Town leads over a stone bridge spanning the moat and is defended by the massive Ravelin Bastion. Here the Venetians hoisted the white flag following the siege in 1571. One can see wall paintings and coats of arms of the Venetians. The passageway features a small shrine and restored areas beyond the gate house a tourist information bureau.

Citadel (Othello’s Tower) The tower was built in the 12th century by the Lusignan Kings as a defence for Famagusta Harbour from attack. This was a massive construction for the time and included a numerous fortifications. The Citadel is known as Othello’s Tower thanks to Shakespeare. The interiors, rooms and casemates are now abandoned with floors littered with bullets and broken sculptures. The wall offers a wondrous view over Famagusta and the harbour.

St. George of the Greeks Church Built in the 15th century in Gothic-Byzantine style, now only a shell remains. The apse still shows fragments of wall paintings and steps in the nave are typical of early basilicas. The roof was brought down by the bombardment in the siege of Famagusta and the walls bear marks from cannonball strikes. Abutting the church is the church of Agios Symeon.

Biddulph Gate This gate stands in a side street and is a remnant of a merchant’s house. It was named after Sir Robert Biddulph, the British High Commissioner who saved it from being pulled down in 1879, and Biddulph pioneered the protection of Famagusta’s historic sites.

The area to the north of old Famagusta was, until recently, occupied by the Turkish army, but now some of the historic sites are open to visitors. St. Mary's of Carmel made of yellow stone is only viewed from the outside. The Armenian Church was built in the 15th and 16th centuries when Armenians had Bishops in Nicosia and Famagusta, and inside are paintings and Armenian inscriptions. Towards the Moratto bastion and beyond Tanner’s Mosque stands the Church of St. Anna, with an unusual belfry rising above the façade.

Medresa A single story building north of the Lala Mustafa Pasa mosque which was once a college of Islamic studies. It would be difficult to discern any particular style but is cited as an example of Ottoman architecture. The stone plinth opposite the entrance has a bust of Namik Kemal who was imprisoned in the Venetian Palace opposite, and to the right are a pair of domed tombs. After serving as a school the medresa was used as offices and as a bank.

Tanner’s Mosque This limestone building was erected in the 16th century, and following the capture of Famagusta by the Turks was converted into a mosque. The mosque was abandoned and since 1974 has served as a depot within a fenced-off compound used by the Turkish army.